The Art of French Polishing.

Bodying up

This middle phase is where we commence to build up the layers of shellac to the fonished product. Before commencing, scuff sand the guitar and be careful to remove any lumps or build up of pumice on the surface. We do not want pumice on the surface, only in the grain pores. By this stage the pad you have been using is most likely worn out and possibly depositing lint occassionally, It will also be stained if you have been filling dark timbers like rosewood. Time to replace it. It always amazes me when I read articles about the polisher having a favourite pad that he keeps. Mine wear out constantly and rapidly. I also prefer new pads.

Start with the top and the new pad.

Fill the pad with the shellac mixture. Do not make the pad wet. It should only be damp so that when you squeeze it onto the back of your hand it makes a mark, not leaves it wet. I start every session with the pad moving in straight lines rather than circles. I do this just incase the pad is too wet and also to make use of the damp pad to ensure adequate adhesion to the previous layer. After covering the whole area I am working on with straight lines, I begin working in circles, paying special attention to the edges and any corners. If the pad grabs at all, makes sure the covering of the pad is wrapped tightly around the internal padding. If the surface is loose, it can cause it to grap and this will mark the surface.

I generally work on the front and one side first and then set the guitar aside for an hour or so. I return to the guitar and then do the back and the other side and the neck and headstock. I then hang the guitar up to dry for a couple of hours before scuff sanding and repeating the whole process. When satisfied with the amount of polish I have on the guitar I will block sand it well to make sure it is flat and then polish it again for another session.

At any stage you feel the preparation is not going well, or a few pore marks show up, do not be afraid to use the pumice. Use it sparingly, but it is a great tool for flattening the surface. It is possible to fill any large pores with super glue. Just use a sharp object to get it into the pore and leave to dry and then sand flat and apply more polish over the top.

 

The final stage

The final stage is really more of the same, just proceed with another block sand and application of dilute polish. The important difference is that I now limit the polishing to straight lines or large figure eights, no small circles. All I am trying to achieve now is the final gloss and smoothness. I start with the pad damp but not wet, and I only top up the pad with alcohol from this point on. I am not trying to add more finish, just smooth and shine the body that is already there. Finish by putting the guitar aside again for a couple of days to let it start the hardening process. When it is completely dry and much harder, in a couple of weeks, I give the guitar a final sand with 0000 steel wool with wax as a lubricant. If I need anything more agressive I will use automotive cutting compound.

Final Polish.

The french polished guitar is now pretty much complete and should be as close to perfect as possible. All that remains is to give the guitar a final polish. For this I use another automotive product. This one is called a glaze, which is basically a synthetic polymer, not a wax or a polish with silicon. The polymer gives a final gloss to the french polish and leaves a silky smooth feel to the surface. It does not react to the shellac and does not build up like wax. Waxes do not feel good under the hands, especially on the neck of the guitar.

Care and maintenance.

The guitar should need little in the way of care and maintenance as long as it is looked after and not abused. Just polish it occassionally with the glaze. Wipe the guitar down after using it and the finish will last for many years. On new guitars, the back may become marked where it rests against the body. This is something that happens to newly polished instruments but is easily repaired. Avoid polishes and cleaners that contain silicon.

There you have it, an enviromentally friendly finish that will last for years and is unbeatable acoustically and visually.